Favorite Watch Friday

My last post featured an IWC, and for some, that is an unknown brand.  For this week, I’m going with what is likely the most well known watch brand ever.  That brand is, of course, Rolex; specifically the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner. 

The Sub is probably the watch that got me interested in watches.  I’ve always loved them from the first time I saw James Bond glance down at his wrist and the camera zoomed in on that great looking dive watch.  I’ve never owned one one but I dare say that I will at some point in my life.

There are a lot of reasons why I find the Sub remarkable.  Released in 1954, the Sub is one of the earliest dive watches, and featured cutting-edge technology.  For instance, the crown has two O-rings, and screws into the case to make it watertight to 1,000 feet.  The movement is a Rolex perpetual (their word for automatic) which is accurate and durable.  The rotating bezel is uni-directional so that a diver cannot accidentally extend a dive and risk running out of air.  The stainless steel case and Oyster bracelet are models of functional and durable design, and have remained absolutely immune to the effects of fashion over 55 years.  Basically, the Sub is the great man’s watch.

·       It’s big – The 40mm case is large, and pretty thick, but it feels great on the wrist and doesn’t feel clunky.

·       It’s durable – It’s built to last a lifetime and be passed on to the next generation.  When it gets scratched and dinged, it’s a sign that you are a man who’s not afraid to get out and live life.  But if the mood strikes, the case and bracelet can be buffed to near-new appearance.

·       It’s accurate – The automatic movement is COSC certified as a chronometer,  the best you can get.

·         It’s timeless – The design will never go out of style because it is beyond style.  It’s a classic.

Rolex is very evolutionary in terms of updating their models.  The Sub has changed over the years, but slowly, and mainly to improve performance and durability.  I think a used Sub in great shape with a tight Oyster bracelet is on my long-term shopping list.  Or maybe a new one?  And for me it will be Stainless steel with a black face and bezel.  With or without date, either way is cool with me.

Now, let’s talk for a moment about the downside.  There are a few things that you need to think about…

The Rolex stigma.  There are brands that have developed a very negative stereotype which mainly has more to do with the people who purchase (or wish they could purchase, or purchase knock-offs of) the product.  BMW,  Mercedes-Benz, and Porsche all can suffer from this.  But have you driven one of these cars?  They are undeniably great cars.  And the Submariner is an undeniably great watch.  But some douche who is actually able to lay down the green to make the purchase may not be so undeniably awesome.  I look at it this way, judge me by my watch (either positively or negatively), and you are the one who is an asshole.

The Rolex accuracy.  I hear this all the time: “They don’t even keep good time, it’s just about showing off. A Timex is more accurate.”  Total bullshit.  As I mentioned above, COSC certified as a chronometer, which means it is accurate to -4 / +6 seconds per day.  There are 86,400 seconds in a day, so that’s not too bad.  Only 3% of Swiss watches are certified, so it’s among a fairly elite group.  What you typically run in to is people who has been wearing their Roller for ten years, and now it is dropping a few minutes a day and they are pissed.  Keep in mind, no service has been done in ten years.  I guarantee that a Sub which is serviced every few years will be accurate and dependable.

The Fake Rolex.  You need to be very, very careful.  Fake Subs are not as easy to spot as they once were.  They are pretty convincing and many even have automatic movements (albeit, Korean or Chinese with tin and plastic parts).  The best thing to do is ask to see the movement.  No Fauxlex will have a movement that even looks close to the real deal.  If in doubt, don’t do it.  If a deal’s too good to be true, it is too good to be true.  Please be careful.

The Rolex Price.  They aren’t cheap.  A new Sub in Stainless Steel can cost $6,000 but it is possible to find a better price if you are diligent and patient.  Think about it this way, this could be the first watch, oh… excuse me, first Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified, of the rest of your life.

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